I am struck by the beauty of Calabria. The gently rolling hills are illusory; they are higher than they appear and lead to villages on steep ridges. The hillsides are covered with olive groves, fruit and nut trees, and of course, vineyards. Between vineyards cows and sheep that provide milk for the delicious cheeses of the area can be seen in little clots rather than large herds. A wide variety of produce that is bountiful and beautiful is grown here. They are so fresh I could smell the aromatic finocchio, or the sweetness of the fragola, or the greenness of the cicoria as I walked through the farmers market.
Calabria honors its ancient roots but also lives in the modern world. Wind turbines stand in lines across the hills. The use of solar panels is also increasing, but I was saddened to see rigs used for fracking for natural gas in the Ionian Sea.
Crotone was my home base while I explored the villages of Crucoli and Casabona, the birthplaces of my grandparents. The pace of life in Crotone is laid back and easy. The people seem to be aware and with the times, and yet hold to old traditions, especially in family life. Businesses shut down between 14:00 and 17:00 and everyone rests. In the evenings they fare una passaggiata (take a walk). One of the main streets is closed to vehicular traffic and families from noni to bambini stroll, chat, and take the evening air. In the Piazza Pitagoro there is an old fashioned puppet show.
Dinner is late here. The first night I went to a pizza restaurant recommended by Daniele Tricoli, my host at La Corte del Geco B&B. It was 20:30 and Conca d’Oro was empty. I was greeted warmly by the owner and seated at a table. Soon others came in, and before long the restaurant was full. It seemed everyone there knew each other. As people passed my table they acknowledged me with a smile and a nod, or said “Buona sera.” The service was attentive, but not hovering, and the pizza was delicious.
I had two other memorable meals in Crotone, the first at La Figlia di Annible. Everything was fresh and flavorful. The polenta was creamy, the risotto al dente, the fish delicate, and all of the flavors danced in my mouth. I had bergamot ice with amarena cherry surprise that was the most delicious dessert I’ve ever had, and a perfect way to end a perfect meal. The staff was friendly and attentive, and the owner/chef, Sondra is lovely. When I asked her if it was safe for me to walk home in the dark, she assured me it was, but gave me a ride back to the B&B to make sure I felt comfortable.
My last evening in Crotone I ate at Com na Vota. A sign outside the restaurant states “food cooked the old way.” The restaurant was full when I got there, but the owner set a table in the corner for me with a basket of focaccia and a dish of red paste that he called Calabrian caviar. It is sardella, made with young sardines preserved with salt and hot pepper. My first bite was tentative, but it was delicious and not as hot as I’d anticipated. It’s a delicacy my father loved. For dinner I ordered baccala which is reconstituted salted cod, baked with potatoes, tomatoes, and olives, the way my mother made it. Memories of my parents made me feel as if I was having a family dinner. While I waited for my check I was served two little plates, one with peanuts, and the other with lupini, a tasty bean. A basket was placed on the table with bottles of homemade digestives. I sipped both the amaro and anisette
Calabria is still devoutly Catholic and May is the month of Mary. In Crotone they celebrate La Feria di Madonna da Colonna. I left on the last day of the celebration and missed the night time procession through the city when the icon of the Blessed Mother is paraded through the streets. Daniele said that at midnight he would make a pilgrimage to the cathedral at Capo Colonna with his family and many others from the church. It is a twelve kilometer walk and he prays the entire six hours, “Not just for me and my family, but for the whole world.”
One thing about Crotone that stood out to me is how happy and well behaved the children are. Whether on the evening walk, or in a restaurant, I didn’t see one pout or temper tantrum.
When I finished a tour of the archeological museum, it was pouring rain. I waited in the lobby for the rain to subside when a class of eleven or twelve year old children entered two by two. There was no jostling or loud talking. In an orderly manner they hung their coats in the closet and put their umbrellas aside. They didn’t complain because they’d walked there in the rain. I sensed their respect for the space they’d entered and for the shared history they would now see.
I was just beginning to find my way around Crotone when it was time to leave. Four days weren’t enough to explore and see everything I’d hoped to see, but every day was filled with interesting sights and people, delicious food, and learning about Calabria.
My visit was made even more special and enjoyable by Daniele Tricoli, the owner of La Corte del Geco B&B where I stayed. He served a delicious breakfast every morning, and the accommodations are immaculate and comfortable. Daniele and I had interesting conversations, and if he represents the soul of Crotone, it is one shining with light.
Daniele made arrangements so that I could visit the birthplaces of my grandparents. Padre Salvatore Corrado, an Anglican priest, was my driver and translator. During our drives to Crucoli and Casabona we had long talks about religion and life in general. He also has a good sense of humor.
This visit exceeded my expectations, but there is still more that I’d like to see in this area of Calabria. I guess I’ll just have to come back again.
The Write Mind of a Lefthander 
When you went to Casa Bona did you not see any relatives?
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